“What exactly is it?” A question I kept hearing as I started to talk with my friends about my growing passion for gin. It’s a funny question, as I’ve never heard anyone ask the same about vodka, rum, or many other of the popular spirits. I think it goes back to the fact that gin is not a mainstream spirit (yet!) in America. However, the question made me think, and do some reading and researching. I will attempt an abbreviated version of an answer here, as the real answer includes so much more, starting with the interesting and sordid history of gin. That’s for a later post, but to give you a sneak peek – some of the historical nicknames for gin include Mothers’ Ruin, Roll Me in the Kennel, Knock me Down, and Cuckold’s Comfort (oh, my!).
This information, however, should give you the basics of gin, allow you to advise bartenders on what you like, and help you make smart choices at the liquor store. So, read on, friends, and cheers to your gin journey!
The Ingredients
Juniper berries
Gin always starts as a neutral spirit – colorless, odorless, and very strong – at 190 proof, or 95% alcohol by volume (ABV), not something you’d (usually) choose to drink. The neutral spirit itself is made from an agricultural product (corn, barley, wheat, etc.) and ferments into ethanol. Once diluted (in order to bring it to a drinkable ABV), you basically have vodka.
But here’s what makes gin different and oh-so-delicious: you take that distilled product and add juniper, the hallmark of gin. Juniper berries are harvested from juniper trees mostly around the Mediterranean and Eastern Europe. These plants are dedicated – pollen from a male tree will travel 100 miles to pollinate a female tree. Pretty impressive as I consider anything over 15 miles to be a long-distance relationship! Pollination results in the lovely juniper berry, which is added to the neutral spirit in a variety of ways, resulting in various qualities of gin.
Juniper is the clear star in gin, but most distillers add additional herbs and botanicals to develop complex flavor profiles. Some of the more common additives are cardamom, cubeb, ginger, fennel, and angelica root. Many distillers also use citrus, which lends to yummy range of matching garnishes for your G&Ts.
I was recently lucky enough to recently meet Alexandre Gabriel, distiller of Citadelle Gin (and Chairman of Maison Ferrand). He likened juniper to the Pavarotti of gin, and the additional botanicals are the orchestra. You’d love to hear Pavarotti alone, but wouldn’t it be great to hear him backed by worthy accompaniment? Citadelle Gin, by the way, uses 19 botanicals in addition to juniper, resulting in a delicious, complex product.
Myself and Alexandre Gabriel.
The Categories of Gin – Complete with Tasting Recommendations
So, here’s where things get a bit confusing. Gin is gin is gin, right? No, of course not. You know there are variations in other spirits, so why should gin be different? The huge craft movement in gin of late has encouraged this differentiation. I’d say “today’s gin is not your grandmother’s gin” but that’s not true – you can still buy ages-old tried and true bottles that have been the same for years. But you can also try some new craft gins that taste wildly different! All of the gins listed below are produced or distributed in the US. Without further ado:
London Dry:
London Dry gins are are classic, pure gins that can be produced anywhere (not just London). This style of gin became popular when the column still was invented, allowing distillers to to produce a purer, cleaner product. Because of this, additives such as sugar were (and still are) not added. Additionally, all flavors must be natural and be added before or during distillation. Clean, crisp, and dry.
My recommendations: Beefeater, Jensen’s London Dry
Old Tom:
This was the traditional English gin before the column still was invented. The style is no longer formally recognized, so “Old Tom” can mean just about anything. However, what you’ll find, mostly, is a sweetened gin. This style, for some who are not a fan of heavy juniper, may be a good entry point to gin.
My recommendations: Hayman’s Old Tom, Ransom Old Tom
New American/New Western:
Now this is where things get really interesting. This category is not formally recognized either, although there is very little regulation around what is and what isn’t gin, period. This style has become very popular with American distillers, but other countries quickly jumped in the mix. This style is almost anything goes – most are distilled by craft producers, most are floral, and many are less juniper-forward. Some are even barrel aged. The lack of overall regulation of gin combined with the demand for craft spirits has fueled this movement to be sure. It’s hard to know what you’ll get with this style until you try it, but they are a ton of fun! A great way to experiment is to try a sample, neat, at your favorite bar.
My recommendations: Aviation Gin, Hendricks Gin, No. 209 Gin
I hope this is all helpful! Got other favorites/recommendations? Leave ’em in the comments below! Cheers, y’all.
